Step into Au Petit Four at the Esplanade in Phoenix and smell the buttery quiche crust, powdered sugar-doused pastries and savory soup de jour. Oiu, you are in France. Thanks to Catherine Berraud-Dufour. Enjoy a spot of kitchen talk after the jump.

When did you move to the States? January 2000. We found the location for Au Petit Four in May and opened in September.

How long have you been cooking? Since I was very small. I went to the International School of Cooking in Lyon (in a city called Ecully), where I learned mainly to do the baking. And, I practiced a lot—you improve your cooking as you try months after months.

Did you learn techniques from anyone during your childhood years? Oh yes. My mother. My mother was a very great cook, and, you know, when you are a little one you want to do the same. We started with cakes, and then more sophisticated items.

What is your favorite dish? For the baking, I love to do all the tarts, éclairs and Napoleons. Anything simple. I also enjoy the cakes and chocolate because, well, it’s chocolate! For the cooking, I love to cook Boeuf Bourguignon and French Mediterranean cuisine, which is different from the cooking of the North—it’s very good, lots of garlic in it!

What do you miss most about France? Markets. Real markets! Oh, and I miss my family of course. Even if there are markets in Phoenix, they are not like France. The closest one to any market in France is the Downtown Phoenix Public Market. I like it—lots of people, lots of families. It’s very nice, but not the same.

Where do you dine in Phoenix? I discovered very recently La Chalet (on 56 Ave. and Bell). You must try it. It’s Swiss cooking mixed with French cooking and it’s very nice. Pierre [Catherine's husband and the gentleman who will ring you up for your apple turnover and Perrier] and I go to Postino in Arcadia, which is very different. We like Cibo, also. We love to cook at home, though. (Pierre recommends ‘Pomo Pizzeria Napoletana for “a nice, thin crust pizza” and Scratch for pastries).

What would you like to do if you were not running a restaurant? I would love to open a cooking class. Not a school, but a class with good, simple French cooking—the kind that you can do easily at home. Just a simple, intimate, creative class. And, later, something more sophisticated.

We love your quiches, what’s your secret? The dough. We make it here, and you must use good butter. For the heavy tomato and mozzarella quiche, make your dough as slim as possible. The second most important is the sauce. Half milk, half cream and a few eggs! Everything simple. In France, people love quiche; Quiche Lorraine for breakfast, quiche with a green salad for lunch and quiche for dinner. It’s a very fresh, light dish—very good for your body, which is why people love them here. Would you like one?

For the record, we left with Au Petit Four’s Provencale Quiche (that’s tomato, mushrooms, herbs de Provence) and relished in every, decadent bite. Au Petit Four serves up the best of France from 7:30 am until 8 pm, and midnight on Fridays and Saturdays.

2501 E. Camelback Rd., 602-852-9668

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