New Times Food Reviewer Gets Ballsy

May 27, 2010 | 3:13 PM | Restaurants | By Staff

We’ve always enjoyed the insightful, passionate reviews of New Times Ciao Bella-ista, Michelle Laudig. Even if she does tend to take the whole food reviewing thing pretty seriously (especially considering her publication once spitefully revealed the face of its former food reviewer after getting it’s feelings hurt—please don’t make us defend the AZ Republic ever again.)

So we were excited to see Laudig’s write-up on the Stockyards Restaurant, the iconic Phoenix chophouse that’s been serving up cowboy grub since 1954. After wading through a bunch of wasted calories venting on the anti-immigration backlash, she gets down to brass tacks. Or brass something, as she confesses that she ate a dish we’ve always been to scared to try, calf fries (aka Rocky Mountain oysters, cowboy caviar, swinging beef or plain old breaded, deep-fried bull testicles.)

“Even more out there were the calf fries, something you just don’t see on menus around town. What are those, you ask? Think of meatballs in the most literal way. That’s right, they’re deep-fried testicles — chunks of them, actually, because whole calf balls are pretty big, from what our waiter told us (in a somewhat TMI fashion). Crunchy on the outside and spongy on the inside, they had a beefy, mildly musky flavor that hinted of liver. And you have to be a little ballsy to try them, even when there’s plenty of pungent cocktail sauce on hand.”

[Phx New Times]

    

Related Posts

TAGS: ||

5 Comments

  1. S.V.
    March 9, 2011 11:19 PM

    Dawson. Dear dear Dawson,
    Woe is me. Woe to us all! Now that Michelle has upped and gone, leaving sweet Peace Corp. palate trained Mr. Seftel in her quake, (oops! Did I say “Quake?” I mean’t “wake” for darns sake!)What are we serious restaurantuers to do? Please say you’ll help Dawson dearest. You may be the only one to save us from an awful quake, I mean fate for Pete’s sake! You and Maggie, your not only beautiful but highly intelligent and “I-get-it wife” would make an awsome “duo” critic team. Think about it will you? Just think about it…for look what’s at stake in our 5th largest state!!!
    An admirer,(you know who!)

Continuing the Discussion

  1. Phoenix Restaurants | AZ Centenial | Stockyards Restaurant

    [...] for inspiration? Check out this review by a local food critic, who got up close and personal with the Stockyards most infamous menu item. Comment here [...]

    August 17, 20109:52 AM
  2. Michele Laudig Leaving Phoenix New Times | Chow Bella | Jess Harter

    [...] Big shakeup in the local food scene as Michele Laudig, longtime food critic at the Phoenix New Times has quit/resigned/been fired. We’ve put in a [...]

    March 8, 20112:15 PM
  3. Check Please! | Scoopfactory

    [...] Big shakeup in the local ‘foodie-verse’ as Michele Laudig, longtime food critic at the Phoenix New Times has left the table. Jess Harter, a fellow former [...]

    March 11, 201111:15 AM
  4. Arizona Stories. Windsor Square Historical District, Phoenix, Arizona and the Windsor a new restaurant slated for April, 2011 opening – “Wanted Rad people” - Unobstructed Views. Scooter LaRue Productions, Phoenix, Arizona

    [...] Big shakeup in the local food scene as Michele Laudig, longtime food critic at the Phoenix New Times has quit/resigned/been fired. We’ve put in [...]

    March 28, 20116:05 AM
LEAVE A COMMENT

Thank you for commenting at DLT. We're so excited to meet you that we're going to add you to our Scoop Factory family. This free daily email magazine dishes up the best in local dining, style and culture, as well as insider-only giveaways.

or, reply to this post via trackback.

Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...